If you want to ask questions about how the machine works, peculiar details, the differences between models, here it is !
How to program the oric hardware (VIA, FDC, ...) is also welcome.
robcook wrote: ↑Wed Feb 19, 2020 7:58 pm
I still have no cassette/data recorder Any that I find online either have horrendous reviews or lousy pictures/descriptions that don't include port/socket info. I have the lead connector from Cool Novelties - https://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIC-1-ORIC-AT ... 1775032876 but no player to connect it to. Been hunting around local second-hand shops (no joy!), eBay, Amazon, etc. but I don't want to lay out money + P&P for something that isn't going to work.
Can anyone please recommend a make/model of data recorders that will definitely work via my cool new lead? I've dropped a message to Cool Novelties asking the same question. Starting to think I'm never gonna get to use the Atmos
No matter what you will find, it will probably struggle with at least one publisher, due to the large variance in azimuth and volume.
I've been also trying to find a bunch of tape drives, and so far, the one that had the best results was the Philips AQ6455 (the big brother of the AQ6355 with adjustable tone and speed).
Dbug wrote: ↑Wed Feb 19, 2020 9:14 pm
No matter what you will find, it will probably struggle with at least one publisher, due to the large variance in azimuth and volume.
Thanks for that pointer. An advantage then I have is that I mainly want (NEED!) the recorder to record and load my own stuff, so the publisher will be me Loading other games and things will be a bonus, of course, but I want to get programming so it really just needs to work for me at the moment.
I've just now had a very quick scan of eBay and Amazon for the Philips AQ6455 but can't see one. Thanks for the suggestion - I'll try to track one of these down.
If it's for your own stuff, on new tapes, pretty much everything would work as long as you keep the volume at the same position.
One major issue with old equipment, is that the belts (everything made of rubber) tends to either dry out or revert to some gooey tar form, lubricated parts (bearings, capstans, ...) get dry as well.
If you try to get something, try to get something as recent as possible, and ideally something that is easy to open and service, avoid anything with auto-reverse (gets easily out of whack over time, azimuths suffers), make sure there's no such thing as "bass boost" or "automatic level correction".
The ideal is models with a "monitor" mode that allows you to listen to the internal speaker to check the sound without having to unplug the cable.